Spirit of Leros
Leros is a unique island in the Aegean Sea.
One oif the most richest island. Yet, its tourism remains far behind.
The good old days of the psychiatric hospital
The money came from the old Lepida psychiatric hospital. This hospital operated for almost 40 years.
This establishment was a real scandal in Greece and Europe. It paid very high salaries to local families for years. Yet, work there was scarce.
The locals even stole equipment intended for the patients. Some still receive very good pensions from this hospital.
All this blocked the island’s development. People just wanted to work at the hospital. Others opened businesses to capture this money. No one wanted to do agriculture or tourism.
The island had too many sports cars. The famous plane tree was even cut down to make room. Every family had three or four cars. They could no longer be parked!
The hospital money helped the island. Land sales to foreigners also brought in revenue. Thus, Leros avoided the 2014 crisis. But the Greek tourists from before liked this change less.
The ARTE channel broadcast a shocking report: “Leros, the island of the damned”. This film triggered the closure of the establishment.
A peculiar island in Greece
In Athens, people know Leros as a very strange island.
Spirit of Leros
Here are some keys to understanding the true Leros spirit:
– For three years, Leros has been selling itself to the Turks. Offshore companies buy the land. The island also attracts their tourists. Everything is done to sell them alcohol. This tourism remains very basic. These visitors ignore the culture, museums or churches. They just consume over a few days.
– Despite this, a background of racism is felt. This is the case even for the French.
– The former mayor of the 2000s was re-elected in 2023. He likes to build and seek aid from Europe. Debates at the city council are often simple arguments. No one talks about the true future of the island.
– Do not look for a good service from lawyers, engineers or accountants. Their prices are very high. Yet, their level often remains low. They avoid clear explanations to keep control.
– Everyone watches everyone. Gossip is everywhere. It is almost the only activity here. Apart from church festivals, social life does not exist.
– Taverns call themselves “gourmet” to inflate prices. They imitate French or Italian dishes. It is often a bad copy, but they are proud of it. Finding real Greek food is becoming difficult.
– A few locals tried to live in Europe. Except for rare exceptions, they returned after six months.
– Greeks like to travel to eat well. But a Western tourist pays dearly for his trip. Food is not enough to make him come. Yet, Leros’ online advertising only shows plates.
– The world moves around the island. Yet, the locals are ignorant of the outside. They lack curiosity to go beyond Greek borders. Only conspiracy theories cross countries without limits.
Money in Leros, again and always
– Money is the locals’ only obsession. They act like real piranhas.
– Do not expect any free help on the island. Only your money interests them.
– Do not be fooled by small welcome gifts. Figs or free water always hide a future cost. Anyway, fruits often rot on the trees.
– Here, we do not judge beauty or morals. We just want to know the price of things. You will be asked the question directly, without embarrassment.
Construction in Leros
– The Greek state protects its own craftsmen. Your electrician must have a Greek diploma. He will install local wires and ask for cash. It’s the same for medical prescriptions. Yet, the country lacks 85,000 waiters in 2026.
– Construction techniques are twenty years behind. Yet, the locals think they are the best.
Small local anecdotes
– For seismic concrete, a local mason uses bad iron bars. He hides bars that are too thin in the concrete. Only the visible end is the right size! Yet, he charges you the top price recommended by the civil engineer.
My personal experience
because the words may be harsh
My grandparents emigrated to France in 1921 and they never set foot on the island again! I came here for the first time in 1973. It was the end of the military dictatorship.
My parents considered buying a house in 1995 on the island but they gave up! To have conducted the negotiations at the time, it was already the wild west!
I know the Greek language but from my early years I have always refused to speak it!!
I have seen the island change over the years. I experienced the closure of the hospital and the 2014 crisis.
Today, the island is no longer progressing. It uses small aids to plug holes or do work.
Yet, the locals still lack humility. That is the whole Leros spirit.
Is Leros a good destination for your retirement?
– The first element of answer is your nationality which will allow you to meet a few people to share friendly moments! There are currently mainly English and Scandinavians on the island! The once important French and Italian communities have all deserted the island.
– Apart from the summer period, the activities are very poor all year round. And they are reserved for the Greeks!
And you?
– You will always remain a foreigner here. Your expenses and your investments will not change your status.
– Solidarity does not exist for foreigners. The island is very religious, but no one will help you in case of a hard blow.
– If you are told AVRIO or NA TA POUME, it is a polite refusal. Fend for yourself!
The real life in Leros Island
Nestled in the heart of the Dodekanisia archipelago, Leros is a haven for those looking to escape the bustling tourist crowds of popular Greek islands. This charming isle is known for its stunning landscapes and authentic Greek culture. Whether you are seeking a peaceful retreat or an adventure-packed getaway, Leros offers it all.
An overview of Leros, a Greek island in the Dodecanese celebrated for its authentic atmosphere and unique Italian-influenced architecture. Travelers can explore a variety of landmarks, including the Castle of Panteli, historical windmills, and submerged World War II shipwrecks popular with divers. The documentation details a diverse range of lodging, from family-run studios and aparthotels in Alinda to high-end boutique villas and pet-friendly resorts. Practical advice highlights the financial benefits of visiting during the shoulder season, when costs for flights and accommodations drop significantly compared to the crowded summer months. Visitors are encouraged to utilize local ferries or domestic flights for access and to rent scooters or cars for island mobility. Ultimately, the materials present Leros as a peaceful alternative to more commercialized Greek destinations, emphasizing its traditional gastronomy and natural beauty.
Beaches to Explore
Leros is famous for its beautiful beaches, each unique in its charm. From the serene shores of Alyki to the vibrant atmosphere of Agia Marina, there is a beach for every taste. Travelers can indulge in relaxing sunbathing, swimming in crystal-clear waters, or enjoying water sports. Make sure to pack your beach gear and prepare for a day of sun and fun.
Tips for Your Stay in Leros
Your visit to Leros can be a delightful experience if planned right. Start by exploring the island’s rich history and its picturesque villages. Don’t miss out on local delicacies, which can be found at the numerous tavernas scattered across the island. To avoid common pitfalls, consider joining guided tours to better understand the culture and history of Leros. With the right tips, you will surely enjoy this hidden gem of the South Aegean Sea.
Bodrum
From 2026, you can go on an excursion for a few days to Bodrum in Turkey for some shopping at the bazaar. There will be 4 catamaran rotations per day for the tourist season! Three to Bodrum and one to Cesme

CURRENT EVOLUTION
Uncertainty about the futureUncertainty about the future
Today, 15% belong to foreigners. Leros has been selling to the Turks for 2 years with buildings that are no longer residential but more to accommodate tourists. The traditional Leriot style is not respected to welcome these new owners in their conditions.

OUT OF TIME
Of risky choiceOf risky choice
The island is a little paradise but we hardly take care of it. The year 2024 was marked by a water shortage while the island has many springs. The island is not clean with open-air trash cans with the wind. The natural environment is not a local concern just like biodiversity.

FILOXENIA...SPECIAL
Very different from GreeceVery different from Greece
This Greek reputation of welcoming the foreigner well, since a traveling people itself is not part of the local culture. A little tourism but not too much. The island was flattered by a generation of Western foreigners without appreciating it to the point of replacing it today by Turkish neighbors.
SOME TIPS
SOME TIPS
From LEROS in a few hours by ferry or a short hour by plane, you are in Attica in Athens… To better appreciate the Greek capital and experience Athens and Greece as a local we recommend the exclusive information of our partner vivreathenes.com shares his favorites, his itineraries and his good addresses to explore Greece with pleasure, curiosity and authenticity.
We remain largely doubtful towards two words in particular LUXURY and GOURMET!!
If we understand that the word luxury allows you to rent your accommodation more expensively, it seems really difficult if you have traveled a little to see a similarity with truly luxury in some just passable accommodation!!
As for the gourmet, perhaps we are influenced by our French culture but there is generally no difficulty in restaurant cuisine, the ingredients are quite common, the wine has room for improvement and let’s not talk about the service which often remains in the realm of parody!
Even if all these islands are separated by a few kilometers, everything separates them and first of all on the mentality. All blame Leros for his past as a spoiled child with financial allocations during the years of the psychiatric hospital by the European Union!
No one knows each other from one island to another, everyone hates each other (according to football matches). More surprising, the cultures are different, the songs, the cuisines, the architectures and even more surprising the languages
Everything has become very expensive on the island in a few years and nothing has evolved to justify these increases, which is extremely frustrating.
In fact, it’s an old tradition that justifies this: that of spending 110 days on the beast of passage in the summer so as to do nothing in the winter and especially not prepare for the coming season. Problem is, this was previously possible with cash payments! VAT and social charges are an additional cost of 45%! No problem, we are increasing our prices by 50%! More obviously the usual surcharge for the month of August coupled with a drop in quality to reward those who pay the high price!! The price of the service has long been exceeded, but we continue to vaccinate the adventurous tourists who still come to knock out the Turkishes !
We will certainly have to start thinking about working more during the year…
In addition to a language problem, there is also such a difference in state of mind that it is very difficult to understand each other sometimes!
More surprisingly, this is further complicated by a complete lack of curiosity!
The locals don’t know at all what we foreigners like about Leros and in any case it’s not the same thing at all that is appreciated: the magic of nature! They like to say leros m’as (our leros) but don’t hesitate to damage it with their waste and their negligence
Often this is because most have never left Greece! Also total absence of curiosity from abroad! Unlike the much more open continental Greeks!
To put it simply, if you need a social life you are not in the right place! You have to be “content” with relationships with other foreigners…












